C3 Challenge Mid-month(ish) Update

 Ok, I got a bit of a late start - I wanted to finish the "cocktail" dress I was in the process of sewing before really getting started.   (I'd show a pic, but it came out blurry - hard taking pics of yourself wearing clothing- and I'm not going to retake it anytime soon.)

Where was I?  Right.  Let's start with my "plan"...

1) Layer 1 - Underwear
    a)Chemise/Smock - white linen -squarish neckline hemmed with pulled thread method, sleeves with small cuff.

Fabric choice - plain white linen.   Following the chemise/smock instructions found on page 57 of "The Tudor Tailor" I began this project. 

There is a faint chalk line in blue for where the neckline will be.  As of this post, all machine stitching is completed (haven't taken pics of that yet) and I'm working on the finishing hand stitching - seams, cuffs, etc. 

Here are some pre-machine stitched pieces - all pinned and ready for the machine:

The plan is to work a pulled thread hem embroidery around the neckline and to use insertion stitch to attach the sleeves and underarm gores after the neckline is complete.  A little embroidery to make the garment feel special.  Leaning towards white on white for the insertion work - I like to be subtle - but could be persuaded to use color to emphasize the work.

    b) Linen petticoat - Fabric choice still undecided.  I could have lots of fun with this one - I have odd bits of linen in different colors, more plain white, and could do a "patchwork" of colors, or, if there is enough fabric left over - use the leftover fabric from the lining of the outer garment.  I haven't decided that fabric yet - could go non-linen, or linen.

    c) Wool petticoat - As of this post - this garment is complete.

    d) Pair of Bodies/Stays - a wearable mockup as I work out the fit.

Some coutil and linen for the layers.  I have some cording lying around somewhere as well as "boning" material (which may not be period, but it's hidden).  I believe this garment's construction is approaching very soon.  It will take me some time to work out it's construction.  I do have some substitute materials, should I botch this first attempt at this garment.   I plan to start this garment when the kirtle is cut out.  

    e) OPTIONAL - Farthingale( which may or not be included in this challenge - depending on final design for layer 3).  - STILL OPTIONAL AT THIS POINT - Depends on how 1(d) works out and if I have enough time.

2) Layer 2 - main under garment

    a) Woolen Kirtle, bodice lined with linen.  Plain, simple.

This is the next garment I plan to cut out after posting this post.  The embroidery on the chemise is going to take some time and having constructed a few linen kirtles, I'm familiar with the construction process of this.   It's nice to have an "easy" garment to knock out quick - to bolster one's energy to keep going on with the more difficult pieces.  Also, to get a break from the embroidery that will be ongoing with the other pieces.

3) Layer 3 - main outer garment   

    a) Fitted English Gown 1560-1570's aka "The Flanders Gown"  out of wool and lined with linen.  

The large greenish on the bottom is the main wool.  The other fabrics are red silk, black velvet, black wool, and a green suede I am considering for embellishments.  However, that green suede is calling me to turn it into gloves - to be worn with this outfit.   I'm tempted - but glove making is still "sewing" and not really a "different" craft.  I have some faux leather (black) I'm considering as well - hem guards... but this garment is at least a month or two away from construction and I have time to think about it's construction.

4) Layer 4 - Assessories (different craft)

    a) Cap - heavily embroidered cap -    

To be made from the leftover linen from the chemise.

I've made the decision and ordered a pattern which should arrive later this week.  It's a different style cap than the one I am currently wearing and the pattern comes complete with the embroidery pattern as well.  When it arrives, I'll be giving it a good read and sorting out my embroidery threads to determine whether I go monochrome or go for color.  I'd like to get the embroidery started as soon as I can as it will probably take quite a bit of time for the allover coverage of the cap this pattern will be.  

Hoping I can make do with what I have.   Would love to do the Elizabethan Braid stitch - but I don't really have the correct metal thread to pull that off.  I have some metal thread and may do a "test" patch, but I may just end up using the dmc floss or the silk floss I have in stock.

Anyways.....

This is where my progress on this challenge lies at the moment and my current thoughts on where I am going with these garments as time ticks by.   

Until the next update:

Chelsey of Gloucester