Entering the Calontir Clothing Challenge

 In these dark days of plague and famine during the current global pandemic when all events and gatherings are non-existent, a great cry was sent out from the Kingdom of Calontir for challengers in their clothing challenge.

What is this challenge you ask?  I'll tell you.

"Welcome to the home of the Calontir Clothing Challenge (C3.) While we are all quarantined from each other for the good of the realm, we could also be doing good for our wardrobes. It was from this idea that the C3 was born."

Required Layers
  • Four layers will be required to complete the challenge. Each layer must be a separate item, but may be multiple items if you choose. Each item may only be attributed to one layer.
  • Layer 1 – Underwear: Chemise, braes, undertunic, etc
  • Layer 2 – Main or Under Layer: kirtle, tunic and trousers, doublet and trousers, etc.
  • Layer 3 – Outer Layer: sideless surcoat, cotte, cloak, coat, armor, tabard, etc.
  • Layer 4 – Accessories: This layer is wiiiide open for interpretation. Perhaps it is a garment accessory like a pouch, belt, or hat. Perhaps it is an accessory for your camp like a table, rug, or new pottery set. Perhaps it is a new shield or weapon. Perhaps it’s a painted backdrop to use at an event to cover a modern item. Perhaps you’ve cooked yourself a feast!
  • At least one layer must be of a different craft than the other three. In most cases, this will be the ‘accessory layer’ but it doesn’t have to be.
    • Example: If layers 1-3 are sewn garments, layer 4 may not be a sewn bag or hat. It must be a different discipline.
    • It is possible to have a garment layer be of another discipline (say, layer 3 being an maile or knitted layer) but the other discipline MUST be the primary focus of the garment. An embroidered neckline is not enough to consider the garment as another discipline, it must be a heavily embroidered garment to meet the criteria. There may be grey areas – if you have a question, ask.

Individual Entries:

  • Work begins Oct 1. Prior to Oct 1 you may purchase materials, commission embellishments, plan, and make patterns. You may not begin cutting fabric until Oct 1. Any item started before Oct 1 will not be considered in the final judging.
  • All final pictures, narrative, or inspiration pictures must be turned in no later than Jan 31. Yes, this means that your project must be completed BEFORE January 31 with enough time to take your final pictures.
  • Individuals are completing one (1) full outfit. Multiple outfits will not be considered as added complexity.

So, knowing how I can sometimes be a glutton for punishment, I entered.

I plan to make one complete winter outfit of the Tudor/Elizabethan era  - as I am typing this, I'm not 100% sure about the final top outer layer - but I do plan the following:

1) Layer 1 - Underwear
    a)Chemise/Smock - white linen -squarish neckline hemmed with pulled thread method, sleeves with small cuff.
    b) Linen petticoat
    c) Wool petticoat
    d) Pair of Bodies/Stays - a wearable mockup as I work out the fit. If I have enough time, I may then go on to make second pair to go with
    e) OPTIONAL - Farthingale( which may or not be included in this challenge - depending on final design for layer 3).

2) Layer 2 - main under garment
    a) Woolen Kirtle, bodice lined with linen.  Plain, simple.

3) Layer 3 - main outer garment   
    a) Fitted English Gown 1560-1570's aka "The Flanders Gown"  out of wool and lined with linen.  (

4) Layer 4 - Assessories (different craft)
    a) Cap - heavily embroidered cap - still working on pattern and design.


Since I am going with the "Historically Focused" aspect of this challenge, there will be lots and lots of hand-sewing involved.  I do plan to machine stitch the main construction seams, but finish all the seams by hand, along with hand stitching hems, etc.  

As for patterns,  I am "starting" with the patterns I bought long ago (before I knew better) from Reconstructing History and armed with the knowledge contained within the tomes of "The Tudor Tailor" and Janet Arnolds' "Patterns of Fashion" will make the changes to the patterns to make them more in line with current historical thought.

Anyways, that is the plan.   Now to go through my fabric stash and do some fabric selection.   I will post pictures of the fabrics chosen for each layer/piece.   Some fabrics may look like remnants, because they will be.

I have roughly 4 months to complete this outfit. 

Since I have access to hosting Zoom meetings, I plan to hold a weekly "Stitch and Bitch" sessions where other challengers and crafters can gather as we work on our hand-sewing to cheer each other on.

Wish me luck.

Seashelly  
aka Chelsey of Gloucester

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